About

About this guide

An independent guide to the North York Moors, written by one person who lives on the edge of them.

I moved to the edge of the North York Moors after four decades in IT and cyber security in the south, and I have spent the years since getting out into the place properly: the walks, the villages, the coast, the pubs worth the drive and the ones worth the wait. This guide is what I wish I had been able to read before I arrived. It is free, it is independent, and nobody pays to be on it.

There is a longer version of how I came to be here in A New Life in God's Own Country.

Why this guide exists

Most of what is written about the moors falls into one of two shapes. There are thin listing pages that give you a name, a postcode and nothing else, and there are official sites that have to stay even-handed about every place they mention. Neither answers the question a visitor actually has, which is whether somewhere is worth giving up a Saturday for.

This guide is willing to answer that. It says when a place is not worth the drive, when a car park fills by ten on a bank holiday, and when you would have a better day somewhere else a few miles up the road. That is the only real advantage a one-person guide has, and it is the reason this one exists.

What this guide covers

The National Park and the coast that edges it, from Helmsley across to Whitby and down to Scarborough: the villages, the walks, the steam railway, the dark skies, and the classic car country around Thornton-le-Dale that has given the moors a second life on television. The practical pages matter as much as the pretty ones, so the weather, the parking notes and the moorland safety pages get the same attention as the views.

About Jon Cosson

Jon Cosson lives in North Yorkshire, near Thornton-le-Dale on the southern edge of the North York Moors. After a career in cyber security and IT, ending as a chief information security officer, he moved north and now spends his time walking the moors, touring them in the classic cars he keeps, and writing about both. He is an international speaker on the history of code-breaking and on staying safe online.

I write this guide in my own time, and for the pleasure of it.

The other guides I write

The local guides are three village sites covering the places on this side of the moors: thorntonledale.org, the show village with the beck and the thatched cottage, allerston.org, the quiet farming parish just east of it, and ebberston.org, the village on the A170 with the old church and the Georgian hall.

The classic car archives are free non-commercial reference sites written to the same rules as this guide: mgtseries.com, triumphstag.org, acaceca.com, jaguaretype.org, jaguarmk2.com and giuliaspider.com. They are kept separate from this guide because a visitor guide and a marque archive are different jobs, and readers of one rarely want the other. There is also a personal site at joncosson.com.

Corrections

Corrections are welcome and are the most useful thing this guide receives, particularly from people who live here. If a pub has closed, a path has been diverted, a car park has changed its charges or an opening time is wrong, please tell me and I will put it right. Substantive corrections are recorded on the changelog, so you can see what has been changed and when.

Top answers for the Yorkshire Moors

All questions in the full FAQ hub →

Quick, straight answers to the questions visitors ask most. Each one links through to the fuller guide.

What is there to do in the North York Moors in winter?

Stargazing (it's an International Dark Sky Reserve), bracing coastal and moorland walks, cosy country pubs, and the North Yorkshire Moors Railway's festive steam services. The moors are atmospheric and empty in winter.

What's on

What are the top things to do in the North York Moors?

Ride the North Yorkshire Moors Railway, walk the heather moors and the Cleveland Way, explore Rievaulx and Whitby abbeys, see the Hole of Horcum and Sutton Bank, visit Goathland and Thornton-le-Dale, and spend a day on the coast at Whitby or Robin Hood's Bay.

Things to do

What can you do in the North York Moors when it rains?

Ride the steam railway, visit museums (Beck Isle Museum in Pickering, the Ryedale Folk Museum at Hutton-le-Hole, Whitby's museums), explore abbey visitor centres, or browse the shops and tearooms of Helmsley and Whitby.

Pickering guide

What do I need to know about driving in the North York Moors?

Moor roads are scenic but narrow, with blind summits, cattle grids and sheep. Sometimes free-roaming through villages like Goathland, on unfenced roads, so drive slowly and use passing places. High routes such as Blakey Ridge can be bleak or closed in snow.

Driving routes

Is it free to visit the North York Moors, and what does it cost?

The national park is free to enter, and most walking, moorland and viewpoints cost nothing; you pay only for parking, attractions (abbeys, the railway, museums) and refreshments. Prices vary, so check official sites.

About the Yorkshire Moors

Can you camp in the North York Moors, and is wild camping allowed?

There are many campsites and caravan parks across the park, but wild camping is not a legal right in England and requires the landowner's permission, so use official sites.

Where to stay