Whitby

Where to eat in Whitby: fish and chips, pubs and kippers

Whitby takes its fish and chips seriously, and the famous names run long queues in season. Eat early or late, or walk two streets back from the harbour where the smaller chippies are just as good and half the wait. Kippers, smoked in the town since 1872, are the other local speciality.

Whitby harbour and old town, home of the town's fish and chip shops and old pubs

Whitby harbour, the fish quay, the swing bridge and the chippies around them.

Walking times below are from the swing bridge in the middle of the harbour; opening days and hours change with the season, so check before you set off.

Dogs: most harbourside chippies are takeaway-only for dog owners, and the busy pavements around the Magpie and the swing bridge are not a relaxing place for a dog in peak season. Pubs are generally dog friendly, the Duke of York and The Black Horse on Church Street are happy to see well-behaved dogs in their bar areas, but avoid the crowds by eating slightly earlier or later.

Fish, chips and kippers

  • The Magpie Café, Pier Road (2 minutes). The famous one, in the white harbourside house. Order haddock and chips, the large portion is genuinely large, and the lemon meringue pie if you can still face it. Expect a queue; the takeaway hatch moves far faster than the restaurant.
  • Trenchers, New Quay Road (3 minutes). Big, brisk and reliable opposite the station. Haddock and chips again, or the fish pie on a cold day. Usually the shortest wait of the well-known places.
  • Hadleys, Bridge Street (1 minute). Right by the bridge, no fuss. Cod and chips to take away and eat on the quayside, mind the gulls, they are shameless.
  • Fortune's Kippers, Henrietta Street (8 minutes). A smokehouse working since 1872, up past the foot of the 199 steps. Buy a pair of kippers to take home rather than to eat there; they travel well wrapped in paper.

Pubs for a pint

  • The Duke of York, Church Street (5 minutes). At the foot of the 199 steps with the best window view in town over the harbour mouth. A pint of Yorkshire bitter and a bowl of chips after coming down from the abbey.
  • The Black Horse, Church Street (5 minutes). Tiny, panelled and properly old. Order cask ale and the Yorkshire tapas board, cheese, pie and pickles.
  • Whitby Brewery tap, beside the abbey (15 minutes, uphill). Up the steps or round by road on the East Cliff. Whitby-brewed beer with the abbey ruins outside the window; live music some evenings.
  • The Station Inn, New Quay Road (2 minutes). Straightforward harbourside local with a rotating guest ale list, handy while waiting for a train or bus.

Cake, coffee and something different

  • Botham's of Whitby, Skinner Street (8 minutes). Family bakers since 1865 on the West Cliff. Order a lemon bun and a pot of tea, and take a box of plum bread home.
  • Humble Pie 'n' Mash, Church Street (4 minutes). Cheap, filling and quick in a low-beamed old cottage. Steak pie with mash and gravy is the order.
  • Rusty Shears, Silver Street (7 minutes). Café, walled garden and a very long gin list. Good for brunch, or a gin and tonic out of the wind.

Working it into a day

Time your meal around the sights rather than the other way round: harbour and old town first, the 199 steps and the abbey mid-morning, then chips before the lunchtime crush. Take Botham's plum bread and a pair of Fortune's kippers home with you, more on that in our Whitby shopping guide.

Arriving on the steam train from Pickering puts you two minutes from Trenchers and the Station Inn. For inland alternatives see the food and drink section, Sunday lunch and pubs with a view, plus the dog-friendly pubs round-up and the wider moors with dogs guide. Along the coast, Staithes, Runswick Bay and Robin Hood's Bay all do a decent lunch too.

Eating in Whitby: FAQs

Where are the best fish and chips in Whitby?

The best-known names are The Magpie Café on Pier Road, Trenchers on New Quay Road and Hadleys on Bridge Street, and all three are genuinely good. The honest tip is that the smaller chippies two streets back from the harbour are usually just as good with half the wait, and that eating early or late beats any queue-dodging strategy.

Is the Magpie Café worth the queue?

The fish is excellent and the harbourside setting is part of the appeal, so yes if you have the time. If you do not, the takeaway hatch moves far faster than the restaurant, and Trenchers usually has the shortest wait of the well-known places.

What are Whitby kippers?

Herring, split and cold-smoked over oak. Fortune's on Henrietta Street has been smoking them in the same premises since 1872, and they are best bought to take home wrapped in paper rather than eaten on the spot. They travel well and keep for a few days chilled.

Are there dog-friendly pubs in Whitby?

Yes, the town is easy going with dogs, and the Duke of York and The Black Horse on Church Street are both happy to see well-behaved dogs in their bar areas. Most harbourside chippies are takeaway-only for dog owners, and the pavements around the swing bridge are not a relaxing place for a dog in peak season, so eat slightly earlier or later.

More North York Moors questions? See the full FAQ →

Top answers for the Yorkshire Moors

All questions in the full FAQ hub →

Quick, straight answers to the questions visitors ask most. Each one links through to the fuller guide.

Which coastal towns are best, Whitby, Robin Hood's Bay, Staithes, Runswick Bay or Scarborough?

Whitby for the abbey, harbour and history; Robin Hood's Bay and Staithes for steep, atmospheric fishing villages; Runswick Bay for a pretty sandy beach; and Scarborough for a full traditional seaside resort.

Whitby guide

What is Whitby famous for?

The clifftop ruins of Whitby Abbey, its Bram Stoker Dracula connection, the 199 steps to St Mary's Church, Captain Cook's seafaring history, fish and chips and kippers, Whitby jet jewellery, and the twice-yearly Goth Weekend.

Things to do in Whitby

What is Whitby jet?

Jet is fossilised wood from ancient monkey-puzzle-like trees, preserved in the Jurassic shales of the Whitby coast. Polished to a deep black shine, it was made famous as Victorian mourning jewellery and is still carved and sold by Whitby workshops today.

Whitby guide

Is Whitby worth visiting?

Absolutely, the clifftop abbey that inspired Dracula, the 199 steps, Captain Cook heritage, Whitby jet and famous fish and chips make it the coast's must-see.

Whitby guide

Where is Whitby?

On the North Sea coast of North Yorkshire, at the mouth of the River Esk where the moors meet the sea. It's about 20 miles north-east of Pickering on the A169, roughly 45 miles from York and around 20 miles north of Scarborough.

Whitby guide

What food and drink is the North York Moors known for?

Hearty Yorkshire fare, Sunday roasts with Yorkshire pudding and real ale from local breweries. And on the coast, Whitby fish and chips, crab, and Fortune's kippers, smoked in Whitby since 1872. Thornton-le-Dale is also known for its ice cream.

Food & drink